一般 仕上げ プロセス of cashmire scarves (or shawls) is: raw repair → washing → shrinking (adding softener and smoothing agent) → drying → intermediate inspection → water rolling → fluffing (3-6 times) → steam brushing →Inspection→蒸し→切断。
1. The problem of lint and groove marks
引張 力 is applied at about 30 cm near the ear. because the tensile force at the ear is greater than the cloth body, the scarf with a soft structure 徐々に 形 溝 during the fluffing process, especially near the root of the ear. Fuzz marks are the most common defects during the finishing process of cashmere scarves and are a more difficult problem. The existence of groove marks seriously damages the smoothness そして 美しさ の スカーフ。
1.1 原材料 材料
Raw materials are the basis for causing groove marks. During the tracking production process, it was found that high-quality cashmire is not prone to groove marks, while "sheep wool" scarves are prone to groove marks when fluffed. If the strength of the fiber is damaged, the amount of lint will be lost during fluffing. larger, the number of fluffing must increase when the specified fluffing density is reached, and Groove marks are likely to occur. Therefore, the strength of the cloth body must be measured before fluffing in order to adjust the fluffing process parameters. For the same fiber, light-colored fluff has better fluffing quality, and dark-colored fluff has better fluffing quality. Although velvet is easy to produce groove marks, it is not easy to expose. Only medium and dark velvet, such as camel, maroon, yellow, green, etc., are most difficult to avoidです。
1.2 ファブリック ティッシュ デザイン
Fabric weave design has the following effects on raising groove marks: if the weave pattern is divided into hidden stripes or hidden grid patterns along the warp direction, raising groove marks are likely to occur; when weft density: warp density > 1, the greater the difference between the two. When the weft is thicker, the furrow marks will be shallower, so the weft density is generally selected during design: warp density >1.1~1.3; the filling rate is too large or too small, which can easy lead to the occurrence of groove marks. Practice has proved that the design filling rate is 55 %~70% is appropriate.
1.3 糸 密度
いつ 糸 フリンジ are thin and dense, the tensile force in the warp direction is relatively uniform and it is difficult to produce deep groove marks. The general value is 9 to 11 pieces/10 cm. Water ripple style scarves are prone to grooves, and the yarn density should be larger.
1.4 水分 リゲイン レート オン マシン
The moisture regain on the machine here refers to the moisture regain after drying and before fluffing. From the production tracking, it was found that the moisture regain is closely related to the formation of groove marks. When the moisture regain rate on the machine is Greater than or equal to 22%, it is easy to fluff. After fluffing, the villi will be plump, the cloth surface will be smooth, and there will be fewer grooves.
1.5 毛羽立ち エージェント
Add appropriate fluffing agent to facilitate fluffing. The addition of fluffing agent makes the fiber soft and easy to fluffing out. A suitable fluffing agent means: moderate smoothness and reasonable dosage. If the fabric feels too smooth after treatment, practice has proven that it is not conducive to fluffing.
1.6 Raising equipment and process parameters
The double-action raising machine Lafer raises fluff from both sides of the yarn, which is denser than the single-action raising machine Nc033. The structure of the fabric body is also softer and has better smoothness. The higher the efficiency of each fluffing, the less the number of fluffing times. If the number of fluffing times. If the number of fluffing times is controlled to Less than or equal to 3, fluffing groove marks will not easy occur. The idea of designing the raising parameters is: it is appropriate to make the forward and reverse rollers enter and end the raising state at the same time; the gray fabric tension is moderate to small.
1.7 ファイナライズ and 仕上げ
適切 整形 および 仕上げ 前 上昇 is beneficial to the smoothness of the cloth surface after raisesing, and is less likely to produce raising grooves. Therefore, for thin fabrics, steam lightly before fluffing. The moisture regain rate on the machine is 15%~18%, steam for 2 minutes, and pump cooling for 2 minutes. After steaming, the moisture regain rate of the gray fabric is controlled at 20%~22%です。